Transitioning Tips

By Del Sandeen, About.com Guide

When you want to return to your natural hair, you have two choices on how to get there: cut all of the processed hair off (also known as doing the "big chop") or transition, cutting off the straightened hair bit by bit while your new growth comes in. While cutting off all of the relaxed hair may be easier – it will certainly get you used to dealing with your natural hair in a hurry – not every woman wants to go that route. You may not like how you look with short hair, you may worry about other people's reactions or you may simply prefer longer hair.

To make it through the transition phase with a minimum of frustration, try these tips:

Choose the Right Styles
One of the biggest issues for you may be what hairstyles you can turn to during this period. There are going to be 'dos that are simpler for transitioning hair, while others will be hard to maintain and will probably lead to frustration. The easiest styles will either highlight your new, curly texture or protect your hair in some fashion instead of hairdos that force you to deal with two very different textures.

Have Realistic Expectations
Don't expect natural hair to behave like straightened hair. You'll have to learn different ways of dealing with your hair to get satisfactory results. Otherwise, you can experience a lot of frustration when your natural curls seem to be "unruly." They're not unruly; they're simply doing what they naturally do. Once you accept that your hair is frizzy, puffy or "big," you'll be better able to work with it instead of against it.

Treat Your Hair with Care
Exercise care where the relaxed and natural hair meet. The place where your new growth meets the relaxed hair is especially fragile. If you experience any breakage, chances are high that this will be where it takes place. This is why too much heat styling and manipulation should be avoided. Instead of constantly flat ironing your new growth to match the straight texture, try wet sets and curly styles that make the relaxed hair match your new curls instead.

Be Patient
There may be times when it seems that your hair is simply not growing. It can be frustrating to try and deal with two different textures. You may contemplate returning to relaxed hair because that's what you're familiar with and it seems so much easier. However, if you're really committed to your natural texture, some patience will be required. Your hair is probably growing an average of ½ inch per month, just like everyone else's. Your curly new growth may shrink up, making it appear as if your hair isn't gaining any length.
Just remember that your hair is growing and it's growing in healthy and strong. Put your hair in protective styles where you're not obsessing about hair length every minute of the day. Before you know it, you'll have a head full of natural curls that won't rely on chemicals or heat styling to get you ready for the day. 

What to Avoid When You Transition

By Del Sandeen, About.com Guide

Even if you know how long you want to transition and you have a running style list to get you through the coming weeks and months, do you know what not to do? Ease your way into natural hair and avoid these common pitfalls during your transition.

1. Pressing too Often

When you're only used to dealing with straight hair, it can be hard trying to understand the curls sprouting out of your scalp. You may be tempted to press the new growth to make it match your relaxed hair. Remember: you're growing a chemical out of your hair in order to enjoy your unique kinks and coils. Don't make the new growth match the old; instead, wear styles that make your relaxed hair more closely match your natural hair.
Also, to experience the healthiest growth possible, you must keep heat styling to a minimum. Don't damage your natural hair with too much pressing since your ultimate goal is to move away from straight hair every day.

2. Texturizers

Although texturizers are designed to only slightly relax hair instead of completely straightening it, these are still chemicals and will only make your transition to truly natural hair even longer. Don't believe the hype that texturizers are more natural than relaxers. They contain the same chemicals. The biggest difference between them is the amount of time you leave them on your hair.
A texturizer won't make your transition "easier." It will hide your true curl pattern and only delay the process.

3. Naysayers

This is one thing you can't control as you transition. You'll run into people (you may even be related to them) who'll tell you that you need a relaxer, relaxers make your hair grow, you won't be able to get a job with "hair like that" and all kinds of other myths about natural hair. Do yourself a favor and ignore them. This may be much harder than not pressing and not texturizing your hair, but in the end, it's your hair, not theirs and if you choose to wear it the way it grows out of your scalp, it's your prerogative.

Smart Sleep Habits of Successful Students

Ok, so this was an article that I found. It's focused on the college student perspective. I though it was really informative. Check it out!!!

HealthyWomen

Smart Sleep Habits of Successful Students

College life is hectic. Staying on top of your coursework, immersing yourself in campus social life and finding the time to eat right, exercise and stay connected with family and friends back home can be overwhelming at times. And your sleep cycle is usually the first thing to suffer.

• Not getting enough sleep is an age-old problem on college campuses. Pulling the infamous "all-nighter" and showing up bleary-eyed for classes have become somewhat of a rite of passage. But getting plenty of shut-eye is an important part of your overall wellness. Sleep deprivation can:
  
  
  • hurt academic and athletic performance
  • interfere with your memory and ability to reason and concentrate (Did you know falling asleep at the wheel results in thousands of deaths each year?)
  • make you more susceptible to injury
  • increase stress levels
  • reduce your body's ability to fight infection or heal
  
  
• In addition, some research shows that inadequate sleep--or too much--may make you more prone to obesity, according to a recent study. Although the reasons for this are still being explored, researchers believe hormones that help regulate weight gain are affected by the amount of sleep you get. Psychological issues may also play a role. Some studies have even shown that getting too little sleep can strain the heart, increasing heartbeats and disrupting brain and heart activity.
  
  
• And, let's be honest, you're probably not your most pleasant self when you're exhausted.
  
  
• Sleep is so important to overall health that some colleges include healthy sleep as part of their orientation programs. Some have even canceled early morning classes in an effort to give students more flexibility to catch enough ZZZs.
  
  
• Recharging Your Brain: How Much Sleep Is Enough?
• The truth is that it depends on the person. Some people can get by with only five or six hours of sleep a night. But the National Sleep Foundation says adults need seven to nine hours to feel refreshed and be productive.
  
  
• Say "Yes" to Healthy Sleep Habits
• There are steps you can take to make sure you get plenty of ZZZs:
  
  
  • Stick to a routine sleep schedule. Try to go to sleep and wake up at the same times each day. Sleeping in until the afternoon hours to try to "catch up" on lost sleep will only throw your body more off balance, leaving you exhausted.
  • Don't rely on caffeine, nicotine or other stimulants to give you an extra boost. It may be tempting to take pills to help you stay awake and cram for exams, but they disrupt your sleep patterns and may be harmful. If you need rest, sleep is the best solution.
  • Set the stage for sleep. Dorm rooms aren't exactly spacious, so finding a place to do work or study can be a challenge, but try not to work in bed. Shut down your computer and put away your textbooks an hour or so before turning in for the night. And don't be sheepish about talking with your roommates about setting quiet hours. You may want to use earplugs or a small fan to mask the noise. It's also a good idea to keep the lights low or off, keep the room cool and agree to take phone calls outside the room.
  • Avoid late-night meals and exercise in the few hours leading up to bedtime. Food and the adrenaline rush you get from exercising can make it more difficult to fall asleep. On the other hand, getting routine exercise earlier in the day can promote restful sleep later.
  • Don't pull all-nighters. Learn how to manage your time and keep up with your studies so you aren't left with just one night to cram for a test or write a term paper.
  • Take a deep breath and relax if you have trouble sleeping. There's nothing worse than watching the clock and getting anxious about how many hours of sleep you have left. If you really can't sleep, don't stress. Read a book (not a textbook) or do something else to help you relax, and then try again.
  • Fight the urge to take long naps. While a 20- to 30-minute nap in the early afternoon may help reenergize you, longer naps may interrupt your normal sleep patterns.
  • Take a hot shower before bed to help you relax.
  
  
• If you think you need help sleeping, make an appointment to talk with someone at the student health center. Unresolved fatigue also can be a symptom of more serious health issues, so if you feel chronically exhausted, it's important to see a health care professional.

© 2012. National Women's Health Resource Center, Inc. All rights reserved. All content provided in this guide is for information purposes only. Any information herein relating to specific medical conditions, preventive care and/or healthy lifestyles does not suggest individual diagnosis or treatment and is not a substitute for medical attention.

Natural vs. Straightened Hair

Natural vs. Straightened Hair

Hey, everyone this post is about the most argued about topic in black beauty shops across the USA.... Natural or Straight?

We all come to a point were we decide what we want our hair to look like. What we want our own personal style to be and our hair just happens to be a big part of that, especially growing up. I used to wear my hair in twists with out the need of extensions, or in braids, or my favorite though not often done, I got my mom to flat iron it straight. So when I was 13, I asked my mom if I could get a perm, she said "yes". 

That simple decision has affected my view on hair ever since. We all know that teenagers aren't the most responsible people, and are also prone to crumbling to peer pressure, and I have to admit that all throughout middle and high school I was the exact same way. Throughout school I was lazy and didn't take proper care of my permed hair. Now after years of misuse and heat damage I'm trying to rebuild it. 

So with that I give you an article that I think breaks this issue down with ease....
As well as tips on both sides of the argument, so you can keep your hair healthy!

Grow Natural or Go Straight

 Many black women ask this very question; "should I grow natural or go straight?"
Most black women have a naturally kinky hair type, a feature that we were born with. However, many black women have resolved to change this natural trait. For many years, there has been a growing difference of opinion as to why some women want to change the natural state of their hair and whether this is right or wrong. In an effort to solve this dilemma, I will discuss some of the most common explanations.

For decades, many black women have been forced to choose sides in a metaphorical battle between kinky and straight hair types. Whether we recognize it or not, black women are divided into two sides: one side which we shall call the "Natural Hair Movement" and the other side which we shall call "Unnatural, Straight Hair Movement." Within these two groups, there are a plethora of reasons for choosing to stay natural or go straight. For instance, some in the natural hair movement say "to be black is to be natural and we should not change and conform to the look of another race." Others, choosing to stay natural proclaim, "If I straighten my hair, it will fall out." These are just two examples of the variety of reasons for choosing to go natural.

On the other hand, an overwhelming percentage of the members of the unnatural, straight hair movement, exclaim, "I wear my hair straight because I don't like my hair natural!" as they cover their mouths saying, "Oops, did I say that out loud?"
Many black women are forced to make the choice: natural or straight? There seems to be an easy answer: just do what you want and you will be happy. Unfortunately, this state of blissfulness is short lived.

Many women whom I have counseled about their hair ask this same question: "should I stay natural or should I go straight?" My answer is always the same. "Yes." And no, I am not riding both sides of the fence. I truly believe that, regardless of the reason, it is and should always be a women's choice to wear her hair kinky or straight. With that being said, I also believe that once she has made her choice, she should act responsibly. In other words, if a choice is to be made, a woman should accept the responsibility of her choice by caring for her hair accordingly. Never make a choice that you are not willing to care for.
Unfortunately, at some point most sisters find themselves unhappy with their choice no matter whether they chose natural or straight..

The reasons for this despondency are that many women:

1. Don't understand the choice that they have made
2. Don't understand how to manage the choice that they have made
3. Don't understand how to properly care for the choice that they have made

Let's take a look at the two choices… Natural and then Straight.

Natural Hair

We were born with natural hair (hence the term: natural), however we still don't understand our natural hair. Natural hair requires "care steps" to be taken in order to manage the spiral tresses.

1. You must cleanse and clarify with shampoo and stabilize with a protein and moisturizing conditioner, at least weekly, so that your scalp won't be prone to disorders and your hair won't become polluted.
2. You must moisturize your natural hair each day in order to prevent a dehydrated hair and scalp.
3. You must groom your natural hair each day so that your natural hair will not web together or matt, even if you have locks or twist styles.

Straight Hair

Many women choose the option to mechanically or chemically straighten their hair. While this is a very viable option, many women forget that their hair is not naturally straight, causing so many of them to suffer with hair loss and other problems. Remember, when you change your hair from kinky to straight, you must protect and preserve it by following some simple rules:

Pressed/ Flat Ironed Hair

1. Only use heated tools on clean and conditioned hair.
2. Always use a moisturizer when straightening your kinky hair.
3. Only use one heated tool when straightening your kinky hair.
4. Always monitor the heated tool, ensuring that the temperature stays below 300 degrees.
5. Oil your hair and scalp, as needed, in order to seal in moisture.

Relaxed hair

1. Never relax damaged hair or receive a relaxer if your scalp is damaged.
2. Never allow less than 8 to 10 weeks time between relaxers.
3. "Wet Set" your hair and stay, heated tools your last choice in styling
4. When choosing heated tools, also always monitor the heated tool ensuring that the temperature stays below 300 degrees.
5. Moisturize your hair to prevent hair dehydration.
6. Oil your hair and scalp, as needed, in order to seal in moisture.
   
   

At the end of the day, we will always have strong opinions about black women and their hair, but the choice is yours. Just remember: God made your hair and God makes no mistakes. Learn to respect and love your hair in its natural state, before you alter it.
For more in depth information about all hair textures and types visit LIsa's web site at www.lisaakbari.com . Lisa's books, Every Woman's Guide to Beautiful Hair At Any Age and The Black Woman's Guide to Beautiful Hair are now available at your local book store

By: Lisa Akbari

Introduction: Health, Hair, Life

Introduction: Health, Hair, Life

Okay, so a quick intro on me:

This is ME!!!

I am Victoria Carthorn, a queen in my own right. I am meant to be whatever God wants me to be, whether that be, performance, artist, businesswomen or lawyer. I am meant to do what I can to hope others. To work towards the ultimate good for those who need it. I am here to prove all those who said “A black girl couldn’t do something” wrong. I’m here to represent and conquer. My top five values are: Religion, Family, Friendship, Honesty/Trust, and Fairness/Equality/Diversity. Religion: It is the foundation that I build my life upon. Family: They are my ultimate support system. Friendship: They are my closest confidants, couldn’t be closer even if we were blood. Honesty/Trust: You can’t have any relation platonic or otherwise without trust. Fairness/Equality/Diversity: It is what our ancestors died for we should honor their sacrifice, by not forgetting what they did for us.


So, really this blog is more of a dump spot to share and keep track of things that I'm learning about life (mainly hair care and health). This blog will also represent how I am doing in my personally set goals!

I will have a lot of out side sources from different websites and things from other peoples blog's that I have found to be helpful. I hope that you all enjoy it!!!

Regimen Building Basics

Hair Regimen

This is actually something that I'm still working on, but is of great benefit to everyone. A Hair Regimen is important for anyone looking to learn to take care of there hair and fix the damage done to it.

The article below is from: The Science of Black Hair Website (http://blackhairscience.com/regimen_building_basics.html)

I used this guide myself when I first started my own hair recovery!

Regimen Building Basics for Newbies

Learning to Build a Regimen that WORKS

Feeling overwhelmed by the slew of information on hair care is almost a rite of passage when beginning a healthy hair journey. There are so many techniques and methods for doing everything, from daily moisturizing to airdrying and relaxing. The options are endless. Your regimen, in order to be successful, should contain products that work together to address your two most important hair needs: moisture and protein. It should be basic, flexible, and be able to evolve based on your ever-changing hair needs.

The key to building a solid regimen is finding your own hair tolerance. The information in this article will help you develop the solid foundation you need to successfully build your healthy hair regimen.

One Size Does Not Fit All

As you progress in your hair knowledge, you will soon discover that very few things about hair care are sound gospel. Even the tips in this article are only presented as guides and suggestions to help you on your way! The simple fact is that hair is seasonal. Our hair experiences changes from day to day and week to week depending on a myriad of influencing factors including: humidity, hard water, and bitter cold or sizzling hot temperatures. Hair that was thoroughly moisturized and hydrated one week may become excessively dry and lifeless the next. A regimen that does not take these circumstances into consideration is ultimately a recipe for failure.

Let's Begin!

Now, I will introduce you to the important factors you must consider when choosing the products to support your hair growing regimen. There are two main types of product categories: protein based products and moisture based products. A rule of thumb is: The more you do to your hair chemically, the more of both protein and moisture you will need. The following sections will briefly outline the basic product components of healthy hair regimens based on these categories. A more indepth understanding of protein and moisture and their usefulness for the hair can be found here.

Now that you know what protein and moisture are, here is a sample of the regimen you will be building for yourself. You will select one or two products from each category below. A list of product examples or suggestions is also included below, but keep in mind that this list is by no means exhaustive. There are just far too many products to list! Building a good regimen also means that you will need to experiment with a wide variety of products before you find The Ones! You will need:

1 Moisturizing Shampoo:

This product should be used once or twice weekly depending on your schedule. The best moisturizing shampoos are sodium/ammonium lauryl sulfate free and do not leave the hair feeling stripped, tangly, or squeaky, squeaky clean. These shampoos are gentle cleansers that leave the hair feeling soft and detangled.

Examples: Crème of Nature (red and green label) Shampoo, Neutragena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, Softsheen Breakthru Shampoo , Dax Vegetable Oil Shampoo, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo, Design Essentials Moisture Retention Conditioning Shampoo, Aveda Sap Moss Shampoo, Queen Helene Mint Julep Shampoo, Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo, Aubrey Organics, Abba Creme Moist shampoo, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Shampoo, Elasta QP creme conditioning shampoo, Jason Natural, Salon Selectives Completely Drenched

1 Clarifying Shampoo/ and or Chelating Shampoo if you are a swimmer or have hard water:

This product should be used once per month, or twice per month if you use heavy products/greases oils quite often. Clarifying shampoos strip the hair of product buildup and are great for starting the hair off fresh each month. Your hair will and SHOULD feel squeaky, squeaky clean after clarifying.

Examples: Kenra Clarifying Shampoo, Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo, Infusium 23 Moisturizing Shampoo, Suave shampoos (entire line), V05 shampoos (entire line), Shampoo Three' by Paul Mitchell, Aveda Detox, RESOLVE® Chelating Shampoo from Joico, Elucence Moisture Acidifying Shampoo, Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo, Nexxus -Phyto Organics Kelate Purifying Shampoo, Ouidad Water Works Shampoo, Artec Texturline Daily Clarifying Shampoo

1 Moisturizing and 1 Protein- based Deep Conditioner: This should follow your moisturizing shampoo at every wash. Use of your protein or moisture based product should depend on what your hair needs at the time. (See my Hair Breakage article for more details on this topic.) I recommend deep conditioning for 30-45 minutes once per week, preferably with heat (hooded dryer). If you wash your hair twice weekly, only one of those washes need to be a deep conditioning. You can simply apply your deep conditioner for 10-15 minutes with or without heat for that second weekly washing.

1 Moisturizing and 1 Protein- based Deep Conditioner: This should follow your moisturizing shampoo at every wash. Use of your protein or moisture based product should depend on what your hair needs at the time. (See my Hair Breakage article for more details on this topic.) I recommend deep conditioning for 30-45 minutes once per week, preferably with heat (hooded dryer). If you wash your hair twice weekly, only one of those washes need to be a deep conditioning. You can simply apply your deep conditioner for 10-15 minutes with or without heat for that second weekly washing.

Examples: (Moisturizing) Crème of Nature Nourishing Conditioner, Herbal Essences Replenishing Conditioner, Nexxus Humectress, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner, Dove Intense Moisture, Neutragena Triple Moisture Daily Conditioner, Neutragena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask, Elucence Moisture Balancing conditioner, Keracare Humecto, Mizani Moisturefuse, Elasta QP DPR-11 (Protein) Any Instant Conditioner like Suave and V05 (light/mild), Got2B Soft 1 Minute Emergency (light/mild), Rusk Sensories 60 second Revive (light/mild), ORS replenishing pak (light/mild), Garnier Fructis Long N Strong (mild), Motions Moisture Silk Protein conditioner (mild), Aubrey Organics GPB (mild/moderate), Mane N tail (moderate/heavy)

Protein Treatments:Used for rebuilding the hair. Frequency of use depends on the strength of the treatment you are using and the level of damage you are attempting to correct. Please follow manufacturer's instructions for these products! Some protein reconstructors have specific time schedules and directions for use. Select one (1) protein treatment on the light to mild end of the spectrum for light touch ups and select another (1) protein treatment on the moderate to heavy end for more intense protein conditioning. Protein reconstructors should be followed by moisturizing deep conditioners to restore moisture and pliability to the hair.

Examples: Joico K-Pac (mild), Aphogee 2 Min Keratin Recon. (mild/moderate), Elasta Qp Anti Breakage serum, LeKair Cholesterol (mild/moderate), Motions CPR(mild/moderate), Nexxus Emergencee (moderate), Nexxus Keraphix (moderate), ORS Mayo (moderate), Elucence Extended Moisture Repair, Affirm 5 n 1, Dudley's DRC (heavy), Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair (heavy)

Leave In Conditioner (1 Moisturizing and 1 Protein): Used after washes, or may be used as a daily water-based moisturizer!

Examples: (Moisture) Neutragena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave in, Profectiv Anti-Tangle Leave In, Kenra Daily Defense (Protein) Infusium 23, Cantu Shea Butter Leave In, Salerm 21(moisture w/ protein), Mane N Tail (Conditioner can also be used as leave in), Profectiv Break Free Leave In, Elasta QP Oil Recovery Moisturizer

Water-Based Moisturizer (1 Moisturizing and 1 Protein): Used for daily moisture supplementation. The best water-based moisturizers are products that do not contain mineral oil, petrolatum, or lanolin. I recommend moisturizing the hair once or twice per day, at night before bed and once again in the morning.

Examples:(Moisture) Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) olive oil, ORS carrot oil, Luster's S-Curl, StaSoFro, Hollywood Beauty Carrot and Olive Oil, Most Braid Sprays, all of the leave in conditioners mentioned above can double as moisturizers! (Protein) Cantu Shea Butter Break Cure, Cantu Shea Butter Grow Strong, Elasta QP Mango Butter, Cantu Shea Butter Leave In Conditioner, Profectiv Mega Growth, Profectiv Healthy Ends, Salerm 21

Natural Oils: Used for sealing in water based moisturizers and helping improve the shine and pliability of the hair. Simply apply a light coating of the oil to the ends of the hair first, and work your way up. A dime sized amount should be enough for your entire head of hair. You don't want limp oily hair! Examples: Coconut oil, Olive oil, Almond oil, Jojoba oil, Sweet Almond oil, Carrot oil, Tea Tree Oil, Castor Oil, Vatika Oil, Amla Oil

Essential Oils (optional):Scalp stimulants! These must be diluted in a heavier, carrier oil because they are extremely potent. Sweet almond and jojoba are my carrier oil favorites. Only a few drops need to be used. per application They can also be added to conditioners, moisutirzers, leave ins, and shampoos. They are great for scalp massages, and very regimen friendly!

Examples: Rosemary, Peppermint, Thyme, Ylang Ylang, Lavender, Cedar Wood

Other hair tools:

• Wide and medium toothed seamless comb
• A boar or soft bristle brush- (optional)
• Hair pins/clips
• Rollers
• Satin Scarf, Bonnet, and or Satin Pillowcases (for night care)
• Plastic Shower Caps (for deep conditioning)
• A pair of shears (be sure that they are only used for hair)
• ceramic flatiron *optional* (and heat protectant product)

Protective Styling

Protective styling should be part of any hair growing regimen. A protective style is any style that reduces hair manipulation/combing, cuts back on heat use, or keeps the hair up and off of the shoulders. Buns, spiral curls, rollersets, braids, twistouts, and clipped up/updo styles are all examples of popular protective styles. Some ladies wear protective styles daily, while others reserve these styles for certain days during the week. Keeping the ends protected from the elements is absolutely essential for faster hair health and growth results, so I advise protective styling the hair more often during the week than not.

Heat Reduction

Another critical component for building a healthy hair regimen is reducing your heat use! Heat destroys protein bonds in the hair and depletes your hair's moisture content. Frequent use of heating tools, even with heat protectants, can spell disaster for your hair. Hooded dryers offer the safest heat you'll find, but even those have hot spots that may damage your hair over time. If you must use heat, only use one heating implement at a time. and ALWAYS use a product that specifically states that it is to be used for heat protection. For example, air dry your hair and then flatiron, or blow dry your hair and then bun it up. Limit your use of heat to once weekly, or less if possible.

Sit Back and Take an Honest Look

Just as it is equally important to know which methods to incorporate and use, you must also know when to stop and re-evaluate your methods. When something is not working for you, your hair will let you know either by feeling dry, breaking, or not showing any new length after a given time. It may take you weeks or even months of trial and error to get your regimen customized enough for you to start showing some progress, but it will come. For many of us, it took years of mishandling to get our hair to the place it was, so it will take time to get it back on track! Hope you found this article to be a great starting point!